Brioni F/W 2013/14
For his first Brioni collection, Creative Director Brendan Mullane welcomes you on board for a journey on a luxurious Trans-Siberian Express departing from Milan and headed deep into the wildness of Siberia.
The Brioni man stands on the platform, elegantly dressed in a strong, graphic and razorsharp silhouette, coat over his shoulder and bag in hand, ready to board. His suitcases are filled with a versatile range of modern garments imbued with the house’s longstanding tailoring tradition and artisanal expertise. The journey will take him through different moments starting from the shapes, colors and fabrics to end with the accessories.
1st stop: an artful game of layers with a cocoon feel for a contemporary lifestyle: public and private moments that create a man’s wardrobe for business and leisure wrapped in an elegance that is unique in its genre. A case in point is the chevron wool belted parka with fur trimmed collar over a graphic check suit.
2nd stop: the frost-molded, wind-swept plains inspired the color palette of winter beige; deep brown; gray, from ice to anthracite; midnight blue; soft cream while the lush velvet interiors triggered the deep jewel tones of Bordeaux and ink sapphire blue.
3rd stop: graphically tailored suits that skim the body are fashioned from super fine wools, baby cashmere, vicuna and silk and wool blends. The outerwear, a mix of field jackets, bombers, parkas and duffle coats, in different weights and textures, are reworked with the now-established sartorial codes to offer winter protection. Under the spotlight are a reversible bomber jacket in sheared mink with a laser cut quilted pattern and a suede blouson lined with a soft cashmere fur.
“We wanted to find cohesion between Brioni’s sartorial history and sartorial outerwear to offer a
contemporary elegant attitude,” says Brendan Mullane.
Last stop: accessories. The three key bags of the season are the Jet Bag, the Voyager bag and the Cabin bag, in matte crocodile, baby Astrakhan and Brioni’s new high density patterned cashmere. The new cufflinks in yellow and rose gold and platinum are hand molded in partnership with Fredrikson Stallard, leading exponents of British avant-garde designers in furniture and product design.
Palazzo Serbelloni hosts the presentation of the company’s standout artisanal craftsmanship in an artistic way. A video installation, directed by American artist Collier Schorr, runs black and white images of how a Su Misura suit comes to life, shedding a contemporary light on the elaborate process. Also shot by Collier Schorr are the towering images displayed in the rooms, capture the contemporary elegance of the Brioni man’s journey.
The models stand in glass showcases, a way to reveal the artisanal soul of each look as a real work of art. Just like sculptured objects, the accessories are displayed on pedestals or in glass cases. Single garments become independent systems easily adaptable to different dress codes.
To be one of kind.