Designer: Emeli Mårtensson
Place of origin: Rome
Country of origin: Italy
5PREVIEW began in 2008 when Swedish designer and illustrator Emeli Mårtensson decided to release a small, graphic tee shirt collection of 5 pieces. Her expressive illustrative style and ironic imagery became quickly popular as the label expanded in its short years of existence from a small 5PREVIEW today boasts a 150-piece collection including women’s wear, men’s wear, children’s tee shirt line into a complete women’s collection.
5PREVIEW F/W 2014/15
TABULA RASA is Latin for a blank sheet. The Autumn Winter 2014-15 TABULA RASA collection was literally created from scratch, starting with a plain white piece of paper in a deserted cabin with limited access to society.
The initial inspiration was drawn from old video tapes such as Wim Wenders “Wings of desire”, Cameron Crowes “Singles” and Shane Meadows “This is England” while listening to a confusing nostalgic playlist from high school including the likes of PJ Harvey’s “ Billy”, Toots and the Maytals “54-46” and Lydia Lunch’s “Spooky”.
There is a distinct dark undertone to this collection. As in the book ‘Emile’ by French Philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau this collection started as TABULA RASA, a newborn child, a clean slate, then over time was influenced by it’s surroundings; cult films, alternative music and gritty subcultures.
COLOURS + PRINTS
While presenting a strong sense of nostalgia for counter cultures of the past the TABULA RASA collection also returns to the core of 5PREVIEW as a label. It returns to a simpler colour palette of black, white and grey with the addition of some neutral camels and navy blues. It has also returned to the idea of the 5 PIECE WARDROBE, which are the essential garments for every wardrobe. This TABULA RASA collection aims to bring previous concepts to a new level by starting with a clean slate.
Black is the most predominant shade. Black prints on black with the saying ‘I will stop wearing black when they invent a darker color’ it’s not hard to see who we are! Textures have become extremely important in the black section of the collection. We have used fabrications such a faux shearling to create a contrast, as well as shiny on matt and flock on transparency.
In this collection there are three all over prints. The first print has a strong DIY feel as it was created using a vintage label maker, layering the tape in order to create a check pattern. The second print is a bold, hand drawn repeat of the 5PREVIEW font. It has been designed specifically to have a geometric appearance, playing with negative and positive areas, taking its inspiration from a 60’s graphic. This print can be seen in the graphic silk pieces and as the subtle lining of some jackets. Our third print is the all-over letters. Created by using all the letters from the work 5PREVIEW repeated in a scattered style and black felted that is soft to touch.
This collection also features a stripe for this season, which is a thin, camel/black combo. This stripe carries through from the women’s to the men’s collection. Another stripe is the double black, sheer and opaque stripe that is a knit as well as a silk woven.
The TABULA RASA collection presents a new generation of 5PREVIEW knits. They experiment with a dimension of raised stripes, sheer open knits, brushed woolen textures and chunky cable knits. There are playful jacquards and new geometric shapes. There is also a vintage aspect to the knit category, creating new interpretations of much-loved second hand store finds.
This season we are happy to present a new category for 5PREVIEW, our Denim collection. We aim to create pieces for every ones wardrobe. The denim collection is for both men and women, and includes a unisex style. All our jeans are made in Italy by skilled denim makers who have been in the industry for many years.
The jeans are designed with special leather embossed labels, personalized buttons and studs. There are three washes in this collection including a raw denim, vintage wash and washed black. Each pair of 5PREVIEW denim jeans have our signature ‘5’ stitched back pockets. Our unisex styles are made with selvage denim that has become associated with premium quality jeans. Selvage denim shows the finished edges from the loom rather than the over locked edges that are shown on other jeans. We hope our denim becomes iconic and much loved.
The Women’s collection is motivated by the attitude of strong female artists: Kim Gordon, Patti Smith, PJ Harvey, Lydia Lunch. Not following one trend but alternatively designing a collection that lends itself to heavy layering, mixing and matching clashing pieces. The mood is reminiscent of a time where there was a feel of girlish optimism and debilitating pessimism in the air. This can be seen in the vast variety of contrasting pieces, such as the puffy nylon bomber jackets of the Sharpie subculture to the grungy drop waist baby doll dress and the bold gothic inspired lettering.