Designer: Jonny Johansson
Place of origin: Stockholm
Country of origin: Sweden
ACNE STUDIOS WOMEN’S COLLECTION AUTUMN WINTER 2013
‘Acne Studios Autumn/Winter 2013 Women’s collection is a collaboration between artist Katerina Jebb, the Musée Galliera – Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris and Acne Studios. For this collection we sought to make the invisible visible and the unwearable wearable. We wanted to explore fashion from a different angle, decontextualize it and make history visible.
We’ve had access to the Musée Galliera’s remarkable archive of historical garments, and in forming our collection around them we are resurrecting things that would other- wise be hidden. These historical pieces are reinterpreted and will now be worn again.
Katerina Jebb created artworks by scanning historical garments from the museum’s archive and using them to construct photomontages, mostly of the inside of the garments. The inside is usually unseen, obscure and not meant to be displayed. And the result of revealing the inside of the garments is unexpected, almost intimate and brutally honest. Katerina’s artworks are abstract interpretations, but show a respectful awareness of history and handicraft.
Art is something I enjoy in my work as well as in my private life, so collaborating with an artist like Katerina Jebb has been a privilege, both in the process and the result. And since a significant part of fashion history is preserved in the Musée Galliera’s archive, we felt this was something that deserves to be recognised and shared within a modern cultural context.’
Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
ACNE STUDIOS MEN’S COLLECTION AUTUMN WINTER 2013
‘An exhibition of August Strindberg’s self-portraits last autumn became a starting point for this collection. The piercing look of this enigmatic man is hard to escape. Strindberg was an eccentric, controversial, multifaceted artist known for his writings, plays and paintings. His personal image was strong in fact he was something
of a dandy. Maybe, more than anything else, this is what came to inspire us.
There is a historic mood to the collection, with references to garments from the turn of 19th century. Military clothing such as the pea coat and parka are reworked in a modern way. Historical references clash with modern tailoring; sharp suits and a high waisted trouser with something of a 70s cut. The result is a eccentric wardrobe with almost contradictory references creating a modern look.
There is true variation in the texture and look of the materials, with an emphasis on structure and quality. Italian tailoring fabrics, structured outerwear fabrics, jacquards... Masculine materials such as classic Melton are given a modern twist by being bonded to neoprene. There is also a femininity that contrasts with the more classic materials in the collection, such as wool crepe and drapey double-faced coatings. Micro designs on wool suiting and shirting add depth. The colour card is varied but muted throughout, with an emphasis on dark shades of navy and black against dusty greens, pale grays and nudes.’
Jonny Johansson, creative director