MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
WOMEN’S ‘DÉFILÉ’ COLLECTION – AUTUMN-WINTER 2014
With an enlivened look upon the past, a dialogue between generations sets in. The look is metropolitan. Energy and movement breathe life into classic and timeless fabrics, utilised for their technical savoir-faire. Traditional British patterns take on futuristic formats: a jacket in Prince of Wales check, a houndstooth coat, printed dresses, fair isle and Aran sweaters. Shoulders are structured, sleeves aerodynamic. Original labels remain intact, affixed to garments’ backs, revealing their identity.
A blithe femininity cascades over masculine suits. 1930s nightdresses reinvent day-wear, amass and layer over atypical garments. The apron becomes a skirt or evening dress. Ribbons and belts knot and cinch one’s waist. Men’s shoes are cut to create bib like necklaces. Biological jewellery turns into precious knucklebones. The ‘pop-up’ bags in patent python, plain or grain-embossed leather are worn two and three-dimensionally, becoming aerodynamic.
‘Tabi’ sneakers with rubber and neoprene treatments grow into stilettos, ankle and thigh-high boots.
Materials: Tweed, wool, fake fur, leather, rubber, vintage lace, silk georgette
Colours: White, cream, powder pink, brown, red, Bordeaux, navy blue, black