Autumn/Winter 2013 ©GIVENCHY by RICCARDO TISCI
Women's clothing, Women's shoes, Men's clothing, Men's shoes, Accessories, Bags, Eyewear, Jewelry, Watches, Perfume
GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI
The strength of gypsies meets the romanticism of a Victorian feeling to celebrate women. Riccardo Tisci revisits the signature shapes and prints of his Givenchy archives to create bold feminine silhouettes.
Looking at the gypsy aethetics borrowing men’s clothes but adding femininity in cutting and mixing them with women’s pieces, Riccardo Tisci creates a collection constantly playing with the feminine and the masculine. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, sweatshirts and collar-less duffle coats are paired with under-the-knee skirts and flowy balloon- shaped dresses. Delicate flounces, graceful ruffles and micro-pleats animate blouses, shirts and dresses.
Graphic patchworks of fabrics and prints reveal elaborate techniques of construction and a contrasting take on textures. The sensuality of lace or silk chiffon is reworked in a mosaic-like geometry. Flower-printed flannel, rose-painted chunky tweed and paisley jacquard are paired with lumberjack checked shirts, Madonna-printed velvet and shark jaws men’s prints. Embroidered tulle and chiffon display stars, large sequins and crystals.
Sharp boots show hand-stitched stripes of multi-coloured elaphe, python, whip snake or eel. Chain bracelets in palladium feature an engraved medal. Carrier straps are turned into braided leather or crystal pave belts.
For the first time, Riccardo Tisci brings the sensual Givenchy man to the world of rock and roll. The Fall/Winter collection revisits his obsessions with America, sport, sexuality, Greek neo- classicism, the flag of the United States of America, and infuses a strong Latin attitude and Mapplethorpe iconography. The overall mood is powerful whilst the silhouettes mix high couture elegance, utility workwear and urban streetwear.
Inspired by black and white imagery celebrating the body and sexuality, the collection is rooted in this binary palette but studded with various hues of grey. Starched leather paired with chunky charcoal tweeds offer a contrast between shiny and matte textures. A cotton poplin shirt features sleeves and shoulders in velvet. A collar-less duffle coat is constructed of grained leather and compact wool. An X-ray print of the Stars & Stripes appears on a velvet sweatshirt.
The signature shapes and styles of Givenchy menswear are rendered with a new intensity this season. Lapels and collars disappear, impacting a sense of graphic contour to classics like the bomber or boxy jacket. Oversized metal zippers enhance the tailoring and accentuate elaborate constructions. Chic cashmere jumpers feature bold prints and collage on leather patches or knitwear. Such details demonstrate the innovative technique, the intricate design and the experimental nature of Givenchy menswear collections.