MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
MENSWEAR COLLECTION AUTUMN - WINTER 2014
AN IMPROVED SILHOUETTE
An utopian world is reclaimed by men on a mission. The collection draws inspiration from the creation of the isolated, mineral and glacial Pyramiden city. The silhouette is solid, materials raw. Proportions are imposed from the forgotten past: remains of ulitarian objects, traces of a military presence. Circumstances dictate and reinvent all that is found: lost braces cling to shirts, aged school satchels adorn and close a coat, a zip adjusts an oversized jacket, a 'Replica' coat takes on fur. Climatic conditions bound to clothing like prints: coats are chilled, "camionneurs" frozen, snow seeps into materials, hardening garments. A military blanket, affixed onto a coat is worn as cape or a scarf.
A SPONTANEOUS APPEARANCE
Man is sewn together, a patchwork: the result of spontaneous overlapping of shapes and volumes. Proportions are displaced, garments deconstructed: trousers too short, jackets too large and conversely. The accessoires are fragments of what survived: abandoned house keys, souvenirs and lucky charms are accumulated onto necklaces, shoes and repainted by hand. A bomber jacket is handcrafted from diving vests, scraps of tents and dinghies assemble into windcheaters. Industrial and military fabrics come together as one. A sterteotypical men's wardrobe of classic coats and asymmetric suits intercept these makeshift cuts.
Colours: Black, brown, saphire blue, beige, grey, white.
Matrerials: Felted wool, treated wool, leather, felt, cashmere, fur.